The Burmese Python

Burmese Python (Molurus bivittatus)

Burmese Pythons were amongst the first snakes I kept, and have had at least one of these beauties in my collection ever since. Currently I am the proud owner of several of these beasts, varying in age and size. Unfortunately I only have a few normal coloured ones, and a few albino specimens. My ultimate goal would be to own an albino green Burmese which in my opinion is one of the most stunning colour mutations.

Burmese Pythons make really good pets as they usually have a very placid nature. You do find a few individuals who are exceptions to the rule, but generally they are docile. They do however require a lot of handling and can reach a large size and should not be handled alone once they have reached their full potential.

When deciding on getting a Burmese Python, you should take into consideration that these snakes do require a lot of space and they can grow quite quickly. They also have environmental needs which need to be considered. The following are some guidelines which I use in keeping my Burmese Pythons healthy and happy.

During the lifespan of your Burmese Python you will be required to move him or her to a larger enclosure from time to time, as it grows. It would seem to make sense to start the snake off in a large enclosure, but this is not practical and you would run the risk of causing the snake to stress as well as other complications.

For a hatchling Burmese Python I would suggest a cage approximately 900(l) x 600(d) x 600(h) mm. You should be able to house your snake in this enclosure until it is about 1 meter in length. You will need to provide it with at least one hide box, especially when still very young, to assist it in feeling safer. The following is an easy calculation which can be made to assist in providing your snake with the correct sized enclosure:

Python up to 2.5 meters: snake’s length and calculate (multiply) using the following method: 1 x 0.5 x 0.75

Python over 2.5 meters: snake’s length and calculate (multiply) using the following method: 0.75 x 0.5 x 0.5

(Ref: Arno Naude – www.sareptiles.co.za)

As Burmese Pythons do become rather large, and are very strong, it is advisable to ensure that the glass front to your cage is at least 4 to 6mm thick glass, as anything thinner will break easily, which could let your snake escape, injure your snake, and replacing the glass can become quite costly.

You will most definitely need a heat source. The best method for heating would be a heating pad. You find these in various sizes. The heating pad can take up about ¼ to 1/3 of the enclosure. They should be placed along one side of the enclosure, either against the wall of the cage, although this has the risk of pulling loose, or on the floor of the cage. This then allows for a temperature gradient of “warm” on the one side and “cooler” temperature on the other side. The best method is to connect the heating pads to a thermostat, which will control temperatures, and ensure your snake is kept at its optimal temperature so that extreme temperatures are eliminated.

The best temperature for a Burmese Python is 28 – 32′C on the warm side, and 24 – 26′C on the cooler side. Your snake will also need medium to high humidity. This can be achieved by placing a large water bowl over a part of the heating pad. The bowl should be deep enough for the snake to totally submerge in the water. A smaller water bowl can be provided on the cool side of your cage as fresh, cold drinking water.

If you wish to place lights in your cage ensure your snake cannot get into direct contact with the light. Use a proper light cover. I use energy saving lights in my cages as these do not get hot and also do not dry out the air.

These snakes are semi-arboreal and would like a place to climb. You could either place a shelf in the cage which is wide enough for the snake to climb on, or you can put a strong branch in the cage. If you do place a shelf or a branch in the cage, ensure that it is fastened properly and that it will not move and fall on the snake and hurt it, or worse.

Burmese Pythons enjoy spending some time in water. A large water bowl should be available for soaking. If your snake spends most of its time in the water, you may have a mite infestation, and this could cause health problems. If the humidity is too low or just before shedding they will often spend time in the water as well.

Burmese Pythons are eager feeders, and are often referred to as “dustbins” in collections. A healthy snake should only be fed once a week to once every 10 days. When the snake is still young, feeding should be on a weekly basis to assist in growth, but once it’ reached a year old, it should be slowed to once every 10 days. Some keepers only feed after the snake has defecated, and this is a good way of ensuring the snake is in optimal condition.

Most hatchling pythons will start off by taking small mice or rats. I usually start them on rats as it is easier to keep them on rats than try to change from mice at a later stage. As an avid snake keeper, I never recommend feeding live food items to your snake as accidents can happen and your snake can get injured. Best is to start them on dead food at a young age so that they get used to it. This is usually not too difficult to achieve, and by wiggling the food item on some forceps or tweezers, it usually entices the snake and it should take it without a problem. Some snakes prefer it when you leave the food item in the cage. NEVER leave any live food item in a cage with your snake. Even if you are watching, rats and mice bite faster than what you can grab at them.

Once you cannot see a lump in your snake’s stomach when you’ve fed your snake, or you notice it is looking for food more often, you know it is time to offer larger or more prey items. For large Burmese pythons food items can range from large rats to rabbits, piglets, chickens, etc. Sometimes you will be required to scent a new food item with a known food source, for example if you would like your snake to eat rabbits but it won’t take the rabbit, you can scent the rabbit by rubbing a rat on the rabbit. This usually transfers the smell of the rat onto the rabbit and will fool the snake into thinking that it is going to be eating a rabbit. This method does not always work, so be prepared to be patient.

Shedding is a crucial part of a snake’s growth and well being. As hatchlings snakes generally shed once a month. As they grow older, their growth rate slows down and they will shed less. A very good indication of when a snake is going to shed would be the snake appearing duller than usual, and have a “milky” look to their eyes. This is usually called being “blue”. They appear “blue” for approximately a week, and a day or two before shedding their eyes clear up again.

If a snake’s shedding sloughs off in one piece, it is a good sign and shows that the environmental factors are suitable for the snake and it is healthy. If the snake sheds in pieces, or has shedding stuck on the snake after it’s shed, you need to look at the environmental factors, as well as the snake’s health. When snakes are ill, or have pests such as mites they do not shed properly. This may also cause them to shed more often as well. You will have to look at environmental factors such as humidity and heat. These are usually easy to correct by just adding or removing a factor in your snake’s cage. A lot of keepers mist their snakes by spraying them with a fine mist of luke warm water at least once a day before they are due to shed. This aids in keeping their skin moist and it generally comes off much easier.

Handling your Burmese Python is an essential part of its wellbeing. Too much handling could cause it to stress, and too little handling could cause it to become aggressive and generally aggressive snakes do not make the best pets. One should always remember that when a snake is due to shed they do tend to become hissy. They also do not like being handled while their bellies are full. A good rule of thumb is to only start handling your snake 2 days after a feeding, and stop handling a day or two before feeding. Never handle your snake while you are feeding, or if you smell like (snake) food. Most keepers get bitten while feeding as the smell of the food items have transferred onto the keeper’s hands, and a snake could mistake it for the real thing.

Generally any young snake feels more threatened by you than what an older, bigger snake will. They are usually more feisty and have an “everything wants to eat me syndrome” and will strike and bite without any provocation. A lot of keepers use leather welding gloves when required to handle young snakes. I prefer using a towel and covering the snakes head, and then picking it up gently using both hands. After a few “blind folded” handling sessions, you can attempt to remove the towel once you have the snake in your hands. Be sure to keep the snake away from your face as a bite to the face is never nice. Handle your snake firmly but gently, and if it resists, be persistent and it will eventually get used to being handled. If the snake wraps its tail around your arm (or any part of you) unwind it by gently pulling its tail.

As your snake becomes bigger, it becomes more difficult to handle. Once your snake reaches 3 meters or more handling can become dangerous. It is advisable to ensure that you have someone to assist you when you are handling the snake. Accidents can and do happen! For every meter over 2 meters it is advisable to have one extra assistant.

Burmese Pythons, as mentioned previously, do often get mite infestations. Mites are small black parasites, which live off blood. If you do notice small black moving critters on your snake, you need to seek out help as soon as possible as your snake can and will eventually die from being infested by mites. If you can see even just one mite then there are hundreds in the cage and surrounding areas. Mites can also transmit a number of diseases. Treatment needs to be swift and repeated within weeks to ensure that the mites do not come back.

You need to keep your snake’s cage clean. Snakes can develop skin problems, and burns from poor husbandry, and it is easy to avoid, and difficult to treat. Your snake will probably be scarred for life, if it does get burnt. Ensure your heating pads and lights are in good working order, and that your snake has sufficient space to move away from the heat if there is a problem. Bacteria can build up in the substrate and cause infections of the belly area. Treatment is difficult due to the fact that the snake rubs off any topical creams while moving around and re-infections take place all the time.

Other illnesses you need to keep an eye out for would be respiratory infections (RI), mouth rot and septicemia. Septicemia is a serious, life-threatening infection that gets worse very quickly. It can arise from infections throughout the body, including infections in the lungs or digestive system. If you see your snake’s throat is puffy, he is wheezing, bubbles appear from the mouth or nose, your snake has RI. This is usually caused by either being kept in the wrong conditions (cage is too cold or dry) or possibly being handled when it is cold and being moved around, or being in contact with other sick snakes, or someone who has been working with sick snakes. If you notice any of these symptoms, best is to take your snake to a reptile vet, if you do not have an experienced reptile vet in your area, you can seek help from professionals in the trade, or by visiting one of the reptile related websites, such as www.sareptiles.co.za where you can seek help.

In conclusion I hope that my experience as above will aid in making an informed decision when you want to acquire a large python. These snakes will require a bit more than most snakes especially when thinking about housing, feeding and handling. Always bear in mind that any snake you wish to keep, needs specific conditions and can vary in temperament from individual to individual.